Prepare base wood surface:
I recommend stripping your furniture before you paint it. Removing old paint or polish and bringing out a new surface will allow new paint to stick properly to the surface. For stripping I use a paint stripper followed by a nice smooth sanding finish. Make sure you get rid of all old wax or it will make your paint come off. For waxed surface use white spirit and wire wool pad and for varnished surface use a good old sandpaper and a varnish remover. I like to sand all surfaces, it just evens all surfaces giving paint more grip. Now safety first and you need to have you full long sleeves and jeans on with safety glasses and work gloves.
Final Sanding: Before you paint, wipe the piece down to evacuate all the stripper and sand it delicately. I get a kick out of the chance to utilize the wipe sanders. Wipe down again after final sanding for a clean surface.
Using a Wood Filler: For repairing damaged parts and leveling knob holes I use Bondo Home Solutions Wood Filler it fills up cracks and you can mix it with wood shims to repair edges. Leave filler for a while before you paint and make sure the filled surface is slight rough for better paint grip.
Add appliqués: Appliqués are a good addition to your shabby chic furniture you can buy them easily on many shabby chic online stores.
Groundwork: Some pieces I prepared first and others I didn't. On the off chance that the wood still has stain that was not expelled totally from stripping and sanding it, I would prime it without a doubt. Ensure you get a preliminary that likewise says "sealer", this will seal the stain so it doesn't seep through your paint. A few bits of furniture will require two layers of groundwork to seal the stain.
Paint: I utilize consistent latex indoor house paint. I've utilized level and eggshell, it doesn't generally make a difference, at last they have a striking resemblance. I utilize a delicate white, not immaculate stark white but rather any shading will do. Simply brush it on taking after the grain of the wood. Give it a chance to dry and if necessary include a second coat.
I also use Chalk Furniture Paint, chalk paint is much thicker than general latex paint. It has chalk type stuff in its make-up thus the heavy weight. Furthermore, from what I have experienced, the chalk is the thing that permits the paint to stick well to most any surface and gives it its matte look.
Don’t forget to shake well before use as a decent piece chalk type stuff settles to the base. Other than that, simply paint away like you would with normal paint. A great many people simply slap it on, no pushing about how it will take a gander by any stretch of the imagination. I don’t recommend the simply "slap it on" method for painting yet I may feel audacious one day and do as such! It’s truly about the look you are attempting to accomplish. I will say that once you apply the wax towards the finishing part you will have the actual final look.
Chalk paint has practically zero smell so painting inside is an awesome choice! I painted my table inside and had no issues at all. Chalk paint dries super quick, as well. I painted my seats outside in incomplete sun and the main issue I had was the paint drying on the top some portion of my brush. Kind of odd however it didn't influence anything. I needed to work decently fast too generally the paint dried and made some grainy areas. I didn't have that issue inside so I'm certain it’s ascribed to the breezy day we had and the daylight quite recently working its enchantment and drying the paint quick.
Final Sanding: I gently sand the entire painted piece with fine sand paper. This truly smoothes out the latex paint. On the edges I sand through to the wood to give it a troubled look. You need to do this in zones where the piece would ordinarily wear after some time, as on the edges. On the off chance that you need a more upset look you can take a substantial chain and hit it on the wood to leave imprints… I don't do this yet I've seen my father do it on his pieces.
Adding shades: Most of the times you won’t need this step but just if you are not satisfied by what you see go with this adjustment. There are two approaches. The primary is to purchase some chestnut specialty paint and weaken with a little water. Utilize a cloth to wipe the wash over the place you might want to "antiquated" and after that delicately wipe away the surplus. In the event that you've included a lot of you can evacuate some of it with a wet cloth. I utilized this procedure on the angel swag appliqué on my bed. The second alternative is to utilize "Rub n Buff" which is accessible at most side interest stores. It comes in a wide range of hues. Put a little on your finger and softly rub over the piece where you need to include shading. The distinction between these two alternatives is that the first gets down into the hole and the second one goes on the high spots. You can even utilize both of these together.
Waxing: For waxing I use minwax it add a little extra finish to whole thing. Using a good quality wa is important for neat finish. Follow on label wax instruction for best results.
Shopping List:
- Chalk Furniture Paint
- Minwax Regular Finishing Wax
- Chalk Painter's Choice Wax Brush
- Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper
- Wire Scratch Brush
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